Thursday 28 November 2013

To PEE or NOT to PEE?

I have been on the road ever since I can remember. My dad was in the armed forces and every time he got posted, he would pile us all in the car with the plants, water camper and some tape recorders and drive till our next home. So at age 4, we did Ooty to Gangtok in a red Maruti 800(more than 3,000 KM), which must have been quite an epic drive since there was me and my brother (age 9) either puking our guts out or tearing each other apart! At age 8, we did Dehra Dun to Chennai in a white Maruti Omni ( about 2,500 KM), which was quite a lot of fun too, because we had just one tape in the car and we heard that one tape over and over again for 10 days!  This has been going on and this month I finished a nearly 3,000KM drive from India to Nepal to Bhutan (this story for later)!

I LOVE road trips but my only predicament with road travel is the number of times I need a Bio Break or in my crass way...PEE!

I have a hyperactive bladder system which gets worse when it’s cold. (I can pee after every 30 minute in that case! ~ True story~)

In India, as a guy you can practically pee anywhere; behind bushes, trees, hedges, walls, buildings anywhere. As a kid, it wasn’t so much of a problem but as I grew older I would frantically wait for the next gas station to relieve myself. But given a choice, believe me; I would love to pee anywhere but at the absolutely horrifying public toilets! The smell and sight can be so revolting; it leaves you nauseous and disgusted. Makes you wish your pee would just dissolve and disappear within! In contrast, the feeling of peeing in the wild is something else. The cool breeze caressing your bum while you sigh of relief is pure bliss!

While travelling with women, it is always easier. I always form a buddy system, where one can create a protective shield from peering eyes while you pee away and vice versa! But when I travel with guys, it gets difficult because I have noticed, and I hope everyone would back me up on this, the frequency of men wanting to pee is way lesser than women! Though there is a physiological reason for this (a woman’s bladder is smaller in size because there has to be room for the uterus) but men don’t understand this most of the time! Really guys, it is not our fault! We are built this way and we cannot control it!
Bad Grammar or not, it is always good to see this sign!
I hate the uneasy feeling when you have to pee really badly and there is no opportunity or place to do it.  Every small bump on the road feels amplified and however amazing the landscape, I can’t enjoy its beauty. At these times, the only thing that runs through my mind is, I wish I was wearing an adult diaper!

Now if you are not into wearing diapers, you can do what I do.
  1. The Aggressive Mode- Learn to be unapologetically shameless- If you gotta pee, YOU JUST GOTTA PEE! There is no two ways about it. So just stop the car, get out, find the nearest bush, ensure no men are around, unzip and just PEE! Don’t worry about the dog or cow loitering nearby (who are they gonna tell anyway, eh?) or some people standing a kilometre away! I mean, not like they know you or you know them! And what can they really see from that distance anyway?? So just be shameless, turn a blind eye to being polite and go on with your business.
  2. The Passive Mode- Wear a skirt, especially a long one. It will make your job much easier, believe me. Instead of unzipping and exposing your bum to the world, here all you got to do is lift the skirt a bit and use it to shield the backside!  It is also comfortable while you are on a long road trip.
  3. The Creative Mode- Use a sarong / shawl to make a make shift pee place between two cars or between two open door of a car. Worst case, use a BIG umbrella to cover yourself from whichever directions you anticipate maximum threat!
Creativity at it's best!
I have survived using one or all of the above. Of course I have had my share of people staring at me, nodding at me with disbelief or rolling their eyes every time I wanted to pee, but what the hell, it is just a question of ‘to pee or NOT to pee’, and I always chose to pee whenever wherever I peease!


Monday 25 November 2013

6 type of weekend getaways from Mumbai


I admit I still have a hangover of the “October holiday season” and desperately waiting for the “December holiday season” and if you, like me, work in the corporate world in the financial capital of the country, I am sure you will crave for constant breaks from time to time to avoid burning out.
The time between these two long holiday season is the best time to explore the places around “home ground”- read Mumbai!  First, I don’t have to ask my boss for leaves (which I am saving for my Christmas & New Year holiday) and second, December is the best time to travel around here because of the cooler weather.
My idea of a fun weekend is to explore places rich with history, eat some local food, get the adrenalin flowing or just take a walk on some desolate beach. And if your idea of a weekend getaway is the overdone Lonavala or the overly populated Alibaug beach, please take time to read this post!
So here is a compilation of my favourite weekend getaways from Mumbai!

Adventure Weekend- Kolad


3 hours from Mumbai, this place can get absolutely groovy during the monsoons. My first trip to Kolad was with Blueberry Trails and a bunch of super energetic people. This place is not for the icky hearted, you know those who get icked out by anything wet, cold and slimy! Located on the shores of river Kundalika, you can expect to learn how to kayak, or do some basic river rafting. You can also spend some time exploring the rice fields and get down and dirty! And believe me, a walk through the fields will give you a tour of everything from snakes, crabs to bright frogs!* icky hearts beware*
If this isn’t adventure enough, go on a waterfall trek, bottom to top! The cold water massaging your body after a trek to the top is reward enough!

Spiritual Weekend- Harihareshwar


This one is for all the pious, laidback types. Known as Dakshin Kashi(Southern Kashi), Harihareshwar, 4 hours away from Mumbai is one of Maharashtra’s holy sea side town. This town is famous for its temple, beach and food.
You can visit the temple in the morning, explore the rocky area behind the temple compound and then head towards the beach. The more than 2km beach in front of the temple is usually sparsely populated and is perfect for idling around. If that gets boring, head towards MTDC Harihareshwar where you can take ride on the boat and spot dolphins playing around.  Top this off with some fantastic homemade Malvani food and you are all set to catch the gorgeous sunset!

Wildlife Weekend- Velas


An extension of Harihareshwar, you can catch a jetty from Bangmandale creek to the other side ie. Velas beach. The best time to visit this beach is around February- March when the Ridley turtles hatch and embark on their first journey towards the sea.
These precious creatures are on the endangered list of species and many villages like Velas promote to work towards conserving it.
The sand here is black but extremely soft and clean, perfect for a romantic walk. You can also visit the Bankot fort nearby and catch the sunset from above!

History Weekend- Murud Janjira



Maharashtra is home to many exotic forts which stand tall as witness to the fine history of the Marathas. Most were built during Chhatrapati Shivaji’s rule but most were destroyed either by the Moghuls or the Britishers. What makes Murud Janjira stand out is the fact that it is one of India’s strongest marine fort! Situated 3 KM off the shore, this impregnable fort is accessible only by boat.
In its heyday, it was complete with palaces, markets, water storage tanks, mosque, and living quarters etc. which stand in ruins today. It is amazing how even though it was built on an oval shaped rock, it has its share of fresh water tanks. I read somewhere that this fort also had a channel of secrets tunnels, one such escape tunnel led from within the fort straight to the shore, 3 kms under the sea!  An underwater sea tunnel built during that day and age only shows the brilliance of their architecture & science.
If history is not your thing, you can just spend your day exploring the village at Murud and spend time at the serene beach eating some spicy Anda Pav( Egg & Indian bread).

Camping Weekend- Kashid


A short 30 minutes drive ahead of the bustling Alibaug beach is Kashid. During the weekend, even Kashid beach is not spared and is brimming with weekenders getting their thrill by parasailing or waterskiing. Move a little ahead and there is a small camp site by the beach.
Run by Letscampout, this spot is right on the beach, deserted and extremely close to living with nature. With no network or electricity, you can spend a fun weekend with friends, bon fire and bar-b-que on the beach.
The team will arrange all of this except for friends of course! And yes, like in all camps, be ready to shovel some mud after you take the dump. Nature’s call, with the nature, of the nature, for the nature!

Dizzy Weekend- Nasik


Nasik is one of the most well known pilgrimage towns of Maharashtra, to me Nasik is about two things, vineyards and off-road. Not in that sequence exactly, but one can spend a good weekend learning how to off-road at Mahindra’s Off-Road Academy at Igatpuri(en route Nasik) and then head towards one of the many vineyards Nasik has to offer.
Mahindra’s ORTA, offers 4x 4 training to beginners and seasoned off-roaders as well. This 28 acre track alive with its natural greens, trenches of all shapes & sizes, and slush everywhere, will teach you literally how to get dirty!
After a good night’s rest, head to either the famous Sula vineyard or the Zampa vineyard for some vineyard hopping! Walk through the vineyard, pretend to understand the art of wine making, swirl the wine in your glass, smell the effervescence and indulge into some sparkles!
Driving and drinking is good by me!


Thursday 21 November 2013

Eat, Pray, Travel...but ALONE????



The hope of eating pasta with a cute Italian guy, discovering the power of prayer in an exotic land or finding inner peace in Bali where you bump into some drop dead gorgeous guy, were all such tempting reasons to make you travel solo but how easy is it to go down that path...SOLO?

There are times when I feel so adventurous and free, I feel like I could conquer the world, universe etcetera. But then there have been times when you are out there and you crave for someone to be with you.

Solo travelling for women has been a debatable topic for me. Though I like the concept of exploring on my own and making my own itinerary, I am also fully aware of its drawbacks.

Like this time when I was on one of my solo trips and was taking an early morning photo-walk on this deserted beach alone. It was a kilometre stretch of beach, with absolutely nobody around apart from some birds and stray dogs. While I was clicking some pictures, a very sturdy but friendly looking dog approached me. We spent some time together, him jumping around yelping and me clicking his photographs. Little did I know he was just playing around with his breakfast. Before I knew, his innocent friendly yelp turned into a fully fledged bark and from nowhere 4-5 dogs came charging and surrounded me. As the little snarls turned into growls, I stood still praying hard that they would go away. But when one from them started pulling at my pyjamas, I had had it enough and couldn’t wait until they ripped me off. Apart from my camera and a small purse, I had nothing else to defend myself with and nobody was around to hear my cry of help. I did the next best thing and ran towards the water! With my camera and purse over my head, I sprinted towards the sea until I was waist deep in the water. These dogs followed me and tried to chase me further into the water until they could swim no more.

As I stood for about half an hour or so, I cursed these mongrels who were basking on the beach waiting for my return. Luckily for me, a man was nearby, after hearing me scream, came to rescue me.
Safety has been my biggest issue and I am sure many women share this sentiment. The problem is not just from sleazy leachy men but could be from anything. In this case it was a pack of stray dogs.

The dog who still haunts my solo dreamzz! 

Women who travel alone say that they love travelling solo because it gives them a sense of freedom. They feel liberated & more confident about themselves and get to meet new people and do new things and most importantly learn more about themselves!

Agreed! I love the idea of going out all alone to a new place because it is indeed such an adventure, but sometimes when you are watching that amazing orange sunset or lying under the cool starry night, you really want to share it with the people you love, family/ friends anybody! Yes you could send them a postcard or share some photographs later but no photograph can capture the feeling of soft sand under your feet and the breeze through your hair or the golden warmth on your skin.

But wait, even if you want to capture the moment, most of the times you may not have someone around who can take your pictures or if there are some strangers around, I find it very uncomfortable holding a decent touristy pose in front of them. Most of the time I end up taking a bad picture of myself which is horribly angled! You know the one where you extend your arm and click a photograph in an angle that makes your face look big and which has either you or the background in the picture!

Selfie in a bad angle :(
Travelling alone, especially if you are taking a train or bus always puts me in a fix, especially if I need to use the washroom. Constant thoughts like, ‘What if the bus leaves me while I am still peeing’ or ‘what if someone takes my luggage while I am in the train washroom’ keeps haunting me. There are times when I have asked neighbours to take care of my luggage but really I can’t completely trust a absolute stranger!! I guess it is a learning experience every time.

I have in the past taken the solo road but mostly because I had no option. Most of the times it is either because;
1.       My friends weren’t available
2.       My friends were short of cash
3.       My friends did not want to travel to the place I wanted to
4.       Couldn’t find any like-minded travelling companions

Travelling with someone you get along with doesn’t only make the trip fun but is also easy on the pocket. But if I have to be on my own, I ensure I chart up a itinerary that I share with my close friends and book my stay beforehand  where ever I can. And research well about the place, culture, people, food, climate ...well everything, before you go solo!

So in case you have to travel alone, go ahead.. have fun but be safe!






Tuesday 19 November 2013

The Road ‘Barely’ Travelled – A journey to the hidden paradise, Tawang



Brimming with cultural, national and military history, there are a few places that can be as enticing as Tawang. Located in the north western part of Arunachal Pradesh, bordering Bhutan on the west and Tibet on the north, it houses the largest Buddhist monastery in the world (outside Lhasa), it is the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama, has one of the highest motorable passes in the world, is also the site of the historic 1962 Indo Sino war, and till date China claims it as their territory.

If these weren’t reasons enough for me to pack my bags and explore this mystical land, what more could be! I imagined this place high up in the Himalayas to be completely mangled in conflict; a place torn between religion, politics and nationality. But the reality was nothing near what I had imagined.  

The road to Tawang, at least 70% of the total travel, is a nightmare. Absolutely backbreaking with bumpy no-road roads, it made me question if it was worth it. But like they say, “an adventure is never an adventure when it’s happening”. Neither was now. While travelling I cursed myself for this self inflicting pain, but my desire to visit Tawang didn’t die.

Day 1- Guwahati- Tezpur (161 kms)
As soon as we land in Guwahati, we make a hurried dash for Tezpur. Just as we exit the crowded city and enter the green plains of Assam, our vehicle has a puncture. *Bummer*
Hot and sultry and in the middle of nowhere, the tourist in me starts to get annoyed but the traveller in me was indeed happy. I got a chance to explore the little hamlets nearby.
Tezpur is the cultural capital of Assam and is located on the banks of the mighty Brahmaputra. A short walk around the city is the best way to explore.




Day 2- Tezpur- Tenga Valley (100 kms)
From Tezpur onwards it is all uphill. Once we entered Arunachal Pradesh via Bhalukpong, we could witness the sudden change in the air. Located along the Kameng river, Bhalukpong is a hub for wide water rafting. There is something transitional about Bhalukpong. From a Hindu surrounding there is a sudden shift towards Buddhist influence, with prayer flags and small chortens adorning the roads.
I was lucky to bump into some men from the Nishing tribe. Wearing their long hair tied up in a knot just above the forehead, called the Padum, the Nishings can be easily distinguished and they were more than happy to be photographed.
Originally from the Tibeto- Burmese origin, it is amazing to see how this tribe still holds on to their traditions and customs which is in such juxtaposition to their existence in a nearly modern town.

Man from the Nishing tribe
Day 3- Tenga Valley
A quite valley that sounds of the bubbling brook, Tenga is a very small town which can be crossed in barely 5 minutes. Low clouds surrounded by mountains and the melodious flow of water, it is the kind of place Ruskin Bond would have chosen to write a story. If this is too laid-back for you, then Tenga also has monasteries and a bird sanctuary nearby, ready to be explored. The Chillipam monastery, atop the mountain and old fort ruins at Rupa are worth visiting.
One thing you cannot miss here is the walk across one of the many prayer flag decorated old ‘suspension bridges’. A huge gush of wind and it will set you swaying!
Chillipam Monastery


Day 4- Tenga Valley to Tawang (250 kms)
The road to Tawang is filled as much with history as is Tawang itself. After crossing towns like Bombdila(known for its apple orchids) & Dirang(known for its therapeutic hot springs), we climb higher until we reach the gateway to Tawang, Sela pass. Sela pass which stands at 13, 700 ft above sea level,  ornamented with colourful prayer flags fluttering in the chilling wind and a fantastic view of the Sela lake, makes it one of the most beautiful if not the highest motorable mountain pass in the world. By now my nose was red with cold and ears blocked due to the high altitude.
Nestled in the arms of white mountain peaks, a little ahead of Sela is the Jaswantgarh War Memorial. Epitome of bravery and courage, according to legend, a sepoy of the Indian Army named Jaswant Singh fought all alone against the Chinese soldiers and the treacherous weather for three days during the 1962 Sino-Indian War. He was awarded the Maha Vir Chakra for his courage posthumously. This epic route is incomplete without one paying their respects at the war memorial.
On a clear day, one can see the Tawang monastery, as soon as you move downwards from here. As we drove towards Tawang, the landscape changes drastically, the green meadows were dotted with big hairy yaks and cascading waterfalls along the road.
Closer to Tawang, we could see people from the Monpa tribe along the road. You can differentiate from their distinct attire and their traditional hat made of yak hair.

Sela pass and Sela lake
Enroute Sela Pass

Chinese bunkers from 1962 Indo Sino war

Day 5- Tawang – Bumla pass & Sangester lake (37 kms)
After acclimatizing for a day, which is not enough, we head towards the epic Bumla pass. They say Tawang is the land of 101 lakes. I don’t know if 101 exists today but we crossed at least 4- 5 lakes, of varied sizes and in various states of freeze. The road to Bumla is considered significant since it is from here that the Chinese marched into India during the 1962 Indo- Sino conflict. Bumla pass, situated at the Indo-China border is situated at 16,500 ft above sea level is covered with heavy snow for most part of the year. This pass is also of great historic importance since it is through this pass Dalai Lama entered India while escaping from Tibet.
Another 40 kms through the snow covered route and we reach Sangester lake, also known as Madhuri lake since one song from the Bollywood movie Koyla starring Shah Rukh Khan and Madhuri was shot here. Can’t say much about the glamour quotient but with the fog down, and dead trees protruding, it is one of the most breathtakingly and sinister looking lake.

Bumla Pass

Sangestar Lake

Frozen lake on the way to Bumla



Day 6- Within Tawang
I kept the best for the last. My final day in Tawang and I finally paid homage at the mammothian Tawang monastery. Its sheer size itself can be overwhelming. With a capacity of housing more than 700 monks, it is one of the biggest Buddhist monasteries in the world. The main altar with it’s 27 ft high statue of Lord Buddha streams with pilgrims who come from near and far to seek blessings. The air inside felt heavy with the aroma of incense stick and smell from the burning of the yak butter candle, all together.
The monastery also has a centre for Buddhist Cultural Studies, a library and a museum with valuable artifacts and manuscripts.

Tawang is also of major religious significance since the 6th Dalai Lama was born here. A small shrine, known as the Urgelling gompa, is built here to venerate this holy ground. On the lawns I finally got a chance to interact with some people of the Monpa tribe. We could only speak the universal language of a smile, but it was evident that they were as curious and intrigued about me as I was about them.

Not far from Tawang monastery is the Thukje Choeling Nunnery. Contrary to my belief that all nuns were serious looking religious beings, here they were absolutely jovial and will insist on you having a cup of butter tea with them. They would be even happier if you sit in the kitchen and give them company while they make the tea. Talk to them, they will love it!






The majestic Tawang monastery

Inside Urgelling gompa

Urgelling Gompa
Unlike what I had imagined, Tawang is a peaceful place closely protected by the Indian Army. The Monpas who migrated from Tibet to Tawang, live in their new world cut off, only geographically, from their true homeland but complacent with their farming and beliefs.

While heading back to Guwahati via the same terrible route, I was lost reminiscing on the marvels I had recently experienced. But this time the roads didn’t hurt so much. 

Like Bob Marley said, “Though the road's been rocky it sure feels good to me.” 

*---*---*---*

Route:
There is only one route to Tawang, starting from Guwahati-> Tezpur-> enter Arunachal Pradesh via Bhalukpong-> Tenga Valley-> Bomdila-> Dirang-> Sela Pass-> Jaswantgarh-> Tawang. It totally depends on where you want to make a stop-over. Most of the people who have been to Tawang make a night halt at either Bhalukpong, Bomdila or Dirang.

Passes/ Permits:
Inner Line Permit is required to enter Tawang. This can be obtained from offices in various cities. For more information, log on to http://tawang.nic.in/reach.html
A special permit is required to visit Bum La Pass. The Permits can be requested at the Office of the Deputy Commissioner in Tawang District.

Health:
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is common. You can combat it with either taking a 2- 3 days to acclimatize or take a Diamox tablet before entering Tawang.

Also do get your BP checked from time to time.

Tuesday 12 November 2013

Comic: EXPLORE~ DREAM ~ DISCOVER

It is always nice to start with something that has inspired me. A huge comic fan, I am also a keen follower of www.zenpencils.com. When I first came across this beautiful comic strip illustrated on the lines written by Mark Twain, I totally had to share it!

I loved it, because I could instantly connect to it! Often when I look at my life, my past and think about my future, I feel just one fear; 20 or 30 years from now, I don't want to be disappointed by the things I didn't do in life! I want to live a life of NO Fear or Regrets!

I want to EXPLORE~ DREAM ~ DISCOVER


My First Ramble...

Few months back I started blogging rather seriously...well at least as serious as I could get. It was mostly on either travel or photography or something related to it. But me being me, I think I did something wrong and now can’t access my OWN blog! So here I am with my new blog, which is also fine because unlike my previous blog, I can ramble about anything and everything! Of course most of it will be on travel; because that is one thing I love!

The link to my previous blog is http://pinkjamtravelogues.blogspot.in/ where I had around 12 posts or so. Now in case you have been through that blog before, please note, ‘it is the same author’! So slowly, in between my regular posts, I will try and migrate the posts of my previous travelogues to this blog!

I am from India and I think this country is incredibly beautiful. From the remote villages of the Himalayas, to the indigenous tribes of North East India, the beautiful backwaters of Kerala to the every changing dunes of Rajasthan, this country has so much to offer. For the last one year or so, I have been exploring as much as I could and I am continuing to do so.



For now, it is time for some happy ramblings!